Tapestry and denim millitary coat

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Let me tell you the story of my favorite make so far. I really love a lot of the clothes I have sewn, but this is by far my most favorite. It was my third or fourth coat and I made it 4 years ago. This amazing tapestry fabric was bought during a trip to Istanbul and from the first moment I knew it was meant to be a signature coat. Seriously, 4 years and every time I wear it, i still receive complements!

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As with every one of my most successful creations, I took my time when it comes to finding the best style and pattern. I finally got inspired by a Balmain collection with many military coats with chunky shoulders but unfortunately I did’t manage to find which exactly it was. As for the pattern, Burdastyle’s #115 from the 8/2008 issue seemed to be really promising to be used for the top part! I was impressed by the collar and fell in love with the darts on the elbows which meant a fitted sleeve. Another reason to be proud for this coat is that it was my first effort to alter a pattern, in that case redesign the bottom part and turn a jacket into a coat. All I remember from this process for which I also took my time, is that I measured and divided and multiplied… My waist measurements , my hips measurements, the measurement of the jacket pattern’s waist and so on. And to be honest, looking at the result, I did pretty well!

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Back then, I lived in a huge apartment by myself and I used my big living room as a sewing room so, feeling no rush, it took me 6 whole months to finish it! It was a general practice for me that year to start projects and not precede to the next step until I had planned it thoroughly. I used to do a lot of research on the internet and seriously I think this year was a turning point for me and sewing. I learned to try and sew as perfect as possible. The only problem was that I still had an expensive, yet not very high quality machine. I can say that now, that I have a vintage industrial Pfaff from the 60’s. It was given to me by a friend and it may only do straight lines and zig-zag, but it does them perfect, no matter what.

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Another problem was the lack of fabric. I had only purchased 2 meters of this baby and had to come up with a solution to that. Yes, I confess, I didn’t completely follow the grain and still there wasn’t enough fabric. And this is where the denim came and game my coat the best details ever. I consider this to be one of my biggest “by accident” success stories! I made that bands on the cuffs, the elastic belt and the under collar as well as all the other parts you can see on the photos. I will be sharing a tutorial for the bands because they are really nice! I also hemmed my coat with velvet ribbon one again because of the lack of fabric.

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The coat has a lot of buttons, none of which is functional as it gets fastened with 4 metallic snaps. The reason was that I didn’t trust my machine to make buttonholes and I really don’t think it would be a good choice. The snaps were a very good idea!

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Back then, I was sorry not to have the knowledge to make the shoulders chunkier, but now I am so happy I didn’t because I think it is more classic this way!

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The reason I hate fusible interfacing

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